Aqua Rite T-Cell-15 / Q & A
AquaRite Salt System
The AquaRite salt system has been around for over a decade. It was created as an alternative to heavy containers of chlorine tablets or liquid chlorine. It was found that when salt was added to pool water and circulated thru the pump system a chemical reaction could be made between the salt water and minerals that are on the titanium plates within the cell. The result was the creation of an even level of chlorine that would be constantly circulated through the pool which would lead to no more red eyes, itchy skin, bad odors, or washed out colors on bathing suits.
Automatically creating chlorine from salt eliminated the need for constant purchasing, lugging and lifting of heavy containers of tablets or bottles. The 40 lb salt bags are heavy too but in theory you shouldn’t have to add many bags once the water chemistry in the pool is correct.
Think of the AquaRite salt system as a convenience to make your life simpler. No more pool supply storage shed that constantly smells and one less thing to keep your kids or pets away from.
This cell is designed to work with r1.50 and higher (up to r1.59). It is not FULLY compatible with firmware versions below r1.50 which may cause intermittent errors and our warranty does not cover these versions below r1.50 .
Q & A
Question: High Salt light on the Aqua Rite system remains on?
Answer: Two possible causes. A high salt light almost always means the salt level actually is too high. Unless you have some specific reason to be confident that the salt level isn't too high, you should replace water to bring the salt level down.
Or you may have accidentally changed the T-Cell type from T-15 to another setting.
For units with software version 1.5 and higher:
To Set Turbo Cell Type
- Before operation, the Aqua Rite must be configured for the chlorinator cell that will be used. Refer to the following information and steps below to set the Turbo cell type.
"t-15" = T-CELL-15, CP-15
Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
- Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "t-xx" appears on the display ("t-15" is
the factory default). If the desired cell type is displayed skip to step 4.
- To change to a different cell type, slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super
Chlorinate" and back to "Auto". Repeat this process until the desired cell type is
- Push the Diagnostic button to exit
Here is where it sometimes gets tricky. When recalibrating the salt cell, some users unintentionally change the T-cell setting when moving the switch from Auto to Superchlorinate (in an attempt to reset the AVERAGE salt reading which is your 1st setting) . That’s because they have forgotten to start from the 5th setting which is the INSTANT salt reading (-0000 ppm).
If you have an Aqua Logic or Pro Logic system, press the Menu key until the “Configuration Menu-Locked” appears on the screen. To unlock press and hold the left and right arrow keys for 5-10 seconds. Once unlocked, press the right arrow key once. “Chlor. Config. + to view/change should appear on display. Press the plus (+) key to enter. The display should show Chlorinator Enabled. If not, press the pls (+) key to enable it. Then scroll to the right two times. The “Cell Type” display will indicate the model of cell the system is expecting which should be T-Cell-15. If not configured for correct cell type press the plus (+) or minus (-) key until T-cell-15 is displayed. (Please note that some earlier board revisions could not be configured for different cell types).
Question: My Aqua Rite unit is not generating.
The "no flow" light comes on then goes off. The generator light goes on for 30 seconds and goes off and then there are no lights at all.
Answer: This is the No Cell Power issue that has been known to Hayward since about 2009. Their simple solution is for you to replace the PCB board at a cost of several hundred dollars. 90% of the time it’s a part on the board that has failed. Located in the upper right corner of the board is a black, quarter sized disc known by names such as a thermistor, a varistor, or an inrush current limiter. The usual problem is that the part has failed due to cracked solder joints, burn marks on the back of the board, or the limiter has a hairline crack in it that may disintegrate upon touch. If you are handy with a soldering iron there are You Tube videos that show you how to replace the limiter from Digi-Key Corp (part # 570-1062-ND). Chlorinator Pro has this part available for $6.50 plus shipping.
This issue frequently occurs after thunderstorms due to power surges from nearby lightning strikes. However we also see this when old cells are dying and pool owners overcompensate by adding a lot of salt in order to bring salt levels higher. By the time they realize that the old cell has actually failed there is so much salt in the pool that when a new cell is installed the amperage created is artificially high and may blow the limiter at that point. This leads many pool owners to incorrectly believe that the new cell has caused the limiter to fail when the truth of the matter is this pre-existing condition was there only because there was too much salt in the pool.
Question: My Aqua Rite settings look weird. How did the decimal point get into the salt reading?
Answer: You accidentally switched the settings from English units (US) to metric units. If you push the Diagnostic button once to the 2nd setting (temperature), then move the main switch from Auto -> Super Chlorinate -> Auto. This will switch the temperature from Celsius back to Fahrenheit. Continue pushing the Diagnostic button until you return to the salt reading which should now appear without the decimal point.
Question: The ‘No Flow” light stays on and it appears the cell is not generating chlorine?
Answer: In order for your system to function properly the “No Flow” light must be off.
If it stays on you MUST first determine why it is staying on. Until you solve this problem your system will not operate properly and the cell will not generate chlorine. Common issues are that the flapper on the flow switch has broken off, has an obstruction such as a pebble or palm tree berry wedged inside of it, the grey wire is nicked somewhere (caused by either a rodent or perhaps your gardener’s weed wacker), the telephone jack is not fully plugged into the bottom of your control box or you have installed the flow switch backwards. The arrows on the flow switch should be pointed in the direction of the water flow. If you need a new flow switch please order here...
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